South Africa’s indigenous and heritage foods are finally being recognised for their culinary excellence, with several initiatives on the go across the country, to promote the use of legacy foods in professional hospitality as well as home cooking.
In the country right now several chefs are embracing indigenous ingredients in the kitchen. One such is German-born and South African-raised Johannes Richter, who owns and runs The LivingRoom at Summerhill Guest Estate.
Not only does the chef share a taste of indigenous South African ingredients with his Durban patrons but with many other people from across other regions.
In July, Richter was in Johannesburg for a special two-day collaboration with Wandile Mabaso of the esteemed Les Creatifs in Bryanston.
The chefs held an exclusive dining experience that celebrated their shared passion for endemic ingredients, age-old African cooking techniques, and South African cultural heritage.
Recently, the Durban chef returned to Bandol Sur Mer, one of the first kitchens he first worked in, located in Berlin’s trendy Mitte district, to join owner and chef Andreas Saul in the kitchen for a collaborative, one-of-a-kind menu.
Their dining experience showcased the host restaurant’s relaxed take on fine dining - drawing inspiration from France’s Provence region and its home in Berlin - meeting Richter’s distinct cooking style, which champions the rich diversity of KwaZulu-Natal using hyper-endemic ingredients, ancient processes, modern thinking, and classic technique.
The collaboration not only reunited good friends but also marked a meeting of minds and a celebration of a shared ethos, with both restaurants having received recognition for their sustainable efforts.
In an interview with Independent Media Lifestyle, Ritcher said Berlin holds a special place when it comes to his culinary career.
“I began my career staging at Michelin restaurants across Germany, eventually working at the Michelin three-star restaurant Rutz, before moving on to Bandol Sur Mer.
“I met Johanna (my wife) working at Rutz and we moved across together to Bandol. It was the last place we worked in Berlin together, before moving back to Durban to open The LivingRoom.
“Naturally, there’s a lot of nostalgia and memories around my time there. Chef Andreas’s philosophy also definitely impacted and helped shape my views on sustainability,” he said.
Ritcher said he was excited about the collaboration and aside from the opportunity to cook alongside an old friend and former employer, he was also excited to be able to cook at a restaurant so aligned with their sustainable ethos.
“The restaurant boasts both a Michelin star and a Michelin Green Star - an accolade awarded to restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to sustainable practices.
“With me, I took some of our favourite local products to showcase. There was the guava roll as a childhood memory that we served as a starter, and then I also took along some Mabele (sorghum) which is such a staple,” he said.