A viral skincare video can rack up millions of views in hours, and just as quickly send people rushing to buy a new serum, or DIY treatment that promises flawless glass skin overnight.
But doctors say the glow often comes at a cost.
Many of social media’s most-watched skincare routines layer multiple active ingredients at once, with some videos promoting products containing up to 21 potentially irritating ingredients in a single routine.
Experts say the risks rarely trend alongside the results.
“I’ve seen firsthand how viral beauty trends translate into real skin damage in the treatment room,” says Kevin Havayi, medical director and managing partner at Beverly Hills Physicians.
“Patients come in with damaged skin barriers, unexpected breakouts, and reactions from procedures they attempted at home, and in almost every case, a TikTok video was the starting point.”
Hayavi says five trends in particular are sending patients to clinics.
Overexfoliation and “acid stacking”
“The skin barrier is your first line of defense. When patients come in with sudden redness and breakouts, overexfoliation is one of the first things we investigate. More acids do not mean faster results; they set your skin back by weeks.”
Slugging, and risky substitutes
Applying petroleum jelly as a final skincare step has remained popular. While it can support hydration, problems arise when it is layered over strong active ingredients or replaced with kitchen products.
“Petroleum jelly is generally well-tolerated, but applying it over active ingredients is where things go wrong. And swapping it for kitchen products with no formulation controls is a recipe for reactions we then have to treat in the clinic.”
At-home cosmetic procedures
Microneedling kits, dermaplaning blades, and extraction tools are widely available online, often demonstrated in slick before-and-after clips. But performing procedures without training can lead to infection, scarring, and pigmentation issues.
“These tools deliver real results in the right hands. The before-and-after videos don’t show the cases that go wrong. In a clinical setting, depth, technique, and aftercare are tailored to the individual. At home, it’s guesswork.”
Copying routines without knowing your skin type
Ten-step routines may work for influencers, but not for everyone.
“Your skin type is the starting point for everything. Without knowing it, you are guessing. And sometimes those guesses are expensive to undo.”
Mixing active ingredients, or using kitchen hacks
From combining retinol and vitamin C to applying lemon juice or baking soda, ingredient experimentation is common online.
“Some active combinations are contraindicated,” Hayavi explains.
“And kitchen ingredients are not formulated for skin. The concentration, pH, and purity of a product matter enormously. What seems natural is not always safe.”
He says curiosity about skincare is a positive shift, but warns against trial and error without guidance.
“The most important thing I want people to understand is that skincare and cosmetic treatment are not one-size-fits-all. What clears up one person’s skin can trigger a serious reaction in someone else’s. Factors like skin type, underlying conditions, medication, age, and even climate all affect how your skin responds to any given product or procedure.”
“TikTok has made people more engaged with skincare than ever before, and that curiosity is positive. But curiosity without professional guidance can lead people down a path of trial and error that causes real, lasting harm. The patients we see who have damaged their skin barrier, developed post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or dealt with infection from at-home procedures all had good intentions. Before adopting any new routine or treatment, speak to a qualified professional. A proper skin assessment takes minutes and can save you months of recovery.”
Boitumelo Buthelezi, a local skin specialist at the Skin of Colour Laboratory says she is seeing similar fallout from viral skincare trends.
Buthelezi explains that overexfoliation can damage the skin barrier, leading to redness, irritation, and chronic sensitivity, while acid stacking increases dryness, peeling, and sun sensitivity.
At-home microneedling, she warns, carries a real risk of infection if equipment is not sterile and can cause scarring or pigmentation when performed incorrectly.
Buthelezi says one of the biggest mistakes people make is not understanding their own skin before trying viral routines.
“Start with your skin type,” she advises.
Buthelezi noted that dry or sensitive skin may react badly to harsh exfoliants, while oily or acne-prone skin may tolerate certain active ingredients better.
She encourages patch testing new products for 48 to 72 hours and consulting credible sources such as dermatologists or licensed aestheticians rather than relying solely on social media.
Buthelezi also believes industry professionals have a responsibility to guide the public.
“Professionals should explain the risks versus benefits of popular trends and clarify who is a good candidate, and who is not,” she says.
“The rise of social media skincare trends has benefits but also real risks, from barrier damage and irritation to infection and scarring. The best defense is education, critical thinking, and professional guidance. Whether you’re trying a new acid or watching a viral skincare hack, always prioritize safety, seek credible advice, and know your own skin,” said Buthelezi.
Saturday Star
